My husband and I celebrate our birthdays each year not with the exchange of gifts but with a special dinner out — typically at a restaurant we otherwise wouldn’t frequent on the daily. If the place has a chef’s tasting menu, we tend to gravitate to that.
Over the years, we’ve had some truly exceptional tasting experiences, and some that were so disappointing they ventured toward the realm of absurd. In Philadelphia many years ago, we chose Eric Ripert’s 10 Arts, where Top Chef-famous Jennifer Carroll was the executive chef at the time. It was a frou-frou place, in a beautiful old Philadelphia building, with high ceilings, thick moldings, heavy velvet draperies. Here, nouveau cuisine — coded language for tiny portions — reigned. There were perhaps six courses in all, all about a bite or two in size, none of which were particularly enticing or memorable. In fact, the only course I remember to this day was dessert — two tiny homemade marshmallows. Granted, this was before craft marshmallows became de rigueur, so credit to Chef Carroll, who was ahead of trend.
The server would present each plate with such flourish, but each time she’d leave, we’d lean in and whisper to one another. “Are we being punked?”
“Are there hidden cameras here? Is Allen Funt going to jump out from behind one of these beautiful curtains and say, ‘Smile! You’re on Candid Camera!’”
You could’ve dined using tweezers rather than forks.
We paid the comically expensive tab and resisted complaining to the server. After all, it wasn’t her fault. On the way home, we stopped at a takeout place on North Broad Street and got dinner to go.
Conversely, we’ve had some incredible tasting menu experiences — at Chef Jose Garces’ Amada in Atlantic City and his now-shuttered Tinto in Philadelphia. You can never go wrong with the tasting menu at one of Chef Morimoto’s restaurants.
For a milestone anniversary we spent in Paris, we dined at a restaurant then called Vivant. The man who’d rented us an apartment for the week recommended it, proclaiming it to be one of Paris’ best-kept secrets, especially from the throngs of tourists. This locals-favorite spot delivered perhaps the best meal I’ve ever had in my life. Each plate was delicious, gratifying and paired with a different wine. We left sated, fat and a little drunk.
Not long ago, I dined with a colleague at Boqueria in New York City, a tapas chain with a generous tasting menu option. There were so many courses, we almost needed a second two-top table to hold all the dishes placed before us. We each had no trouble choosing a favorite — the brussels sprouts salad for her, the albondigas meatballs for me.
A successful tasting menu should strike a balance between variety and, frankly, volume. The diner should leave the table feeling exposed to new culinary adventures while also feeling comfortably full from the experience.
This year, my husband and I chose The Essex in Old Saybrook, Connecticut for our co-birthday celebration. It’s a French-inspired, seafood-forward restaurant and bar, with an impossibly small, open kitchen. If you dine at the chef’s table (we didn’t), you’re treated to personal interaction with Chef Colt Taylor, who describes each course. Sit anywhere in the restaurant, and you can hear and see the kitchen team work, like a live episode of The Bear, without the cursing.
“Fire two filets, table 3,” the chef barks at the cooks on proteins. “I need runners now,” he calls out to servers when dishes are expedited and presentable. You get a sense of the hustle it takes to run a fine-dining establishment.
At The Essex, there are two main dining options — a prix fixe three-course meal, plus an amuse, salad and oven-fresh bread. Diners can choose from a list of starters, about five entrées and several desserts. We opted for the chef’s tasting menu, with nine courses, starting with an amuse-bouche and concluding with a dessert. The restaurant also has an excellent selection of craft cocktails. We settled on an oak barrel-aged Manhattan and an Apricot by Surprise (a vodka-based martini).
On this occasion, the tasting menu featured:
Amuse course:
A tiny teacup of Rosemary & Bergamot Apple Tea: A warm and comforting greeting as we came in from the cold, rainy night.
Four canapes:
1. Two pickled mussels with vichysoisse chile oil. These were intriguing, but also a bit of a tease. There were only two on a bed of empty mussel shells.
2. Parsnip & Apple “Flan”, a bite-sized cube that ate like an eggy custard, despite there being no egg in the dish, our server explained.
3. Crispy Octopus fritters, on a bed of subtly sweet plum sauce.
4. A half-thimble of “The Essex Clam Chowder.” Almost enough to give us an actual taste.
First course: Montauk Yellow Fin Tuna Cru, with sea buckthorn and pineapple ponzu. This was tender, bright, fresh, a menu highlight.
Second course: Seafood “Chowder,” with anisette, vermouth, black bass and clam. Probably our least-favorite course, it ate like a pudding and was cold by the time it was placed before us. Our server explained that we should dig into the bottom of the dish, where a single clam and a wedge of black sea bass awaited. The flavor surprisingly leaned to sweet rather than savory. Had it been served hot, it could’ve had the comforting effect of a congee or warm porridge.
Third course: Charred Octopus a la Plancha, with dollops of black sesame, avocado and blood orange. Another menu highlight, the octopus was tender and paired well with the avocado, in particular.
Fourth course: Duck Tortellini in a beet, lemongrass and kaffir lime sauce. Delicate and delicious! The only criticism of this dish is that the sauce was so yummy, after the pasta was gone, there was nothing to soak it up.
Fifth course: Lamb, with pork cassoulet, truffle and sauce périgourdine. I love a cassoulet — the very best version of “pork and beans,” in my book. This was a splendid version, with a tiny sausage, a melt-in-your-mouth chunk of pork, plus tender white beans slow-simmered in the sauce. It almost didn’t need the lollipop lamb chop, though the chop added to the dish’s height and texture for presentation.
Pre-dessert: Poached pear and sassafras sorbet.
Dessert: Flexi Ganache, with black cardamom and tarragon. This S-shaped chocolate ganache was served on a bed of chocolate sauce, with more powdered chocolate and white-chocolate (?) dots, sprinkled for color. Ours came with candles and a happy birthday song. We were the third table to celebrate December birthdays.
Post-dessert: We’d had plenty of sweets by then, but the server delivered four more bite-sized morsels to seal the meal, a sour patch-like tart fruit cube and a tiny take on toasted s’mores for each of us.
The standouts, we agreed, were the charred octopus, the tuna cru and the duck tortellini. In fact, I thought everything was delicious, if in teasingly small proportion. But my husband found the “seafood chowder” to be particularly distasteful — the flavor, consistency and cold serving temperature.
Though the chef came out from the kitchen and visited with other guests, he bypassed our table, so we didn’t have the pleasure of speaking with him about the menu or our experience. We would have expressed praises for our server, Peter, who was especially attentive and cheeky-fun.
As we finished our meal and drinks, we took notice of diners around us who’d ordered from the three-course menu. We coveted their simple green salads, warm bread and butter. The chef’s menu could’ve used one less wow dish (my husband would vote to nix the chowder) in favor of these simple pleasures. Overall, it was a pleasing experience. We didn’t leave feeling hungry nor stuffed, and we could name at least a few dishes that we relished and will remember.
The Essex is located at 247 Main Street in Old Saybrook, Connecticut.
Gretchen A. Peck 